Archive for the 'food' Category
Both recipes are from Simply Recipes. My butcher was out of goat so I substituted lamb shoulder on the bone – I had him saw it into chunks. I followed the curry recipe fairly faithfully, simply increasing the number of habaneros to 3. For Jamaican curry powder, which is made from roasted whole spices and includes allspice, mustard seed and anise in addition to the more usual Indian ingredients, I followed this recipe. My coconut milk was Aroy-D.
I’m not a huge fan of kidney beans, and I’ve read that pigeon peas are used in Jamaica, so for the rice and peas I used Sea Island Red Peas from Anson Mills. I wouldn’t pay too much attention to the hysteria surrounding the single whole habanero in the recipe linked above, but do make sure you have an extremely large pot – the peas and rice will expand enormously.
For extra heat I served homemade Inner Beauty hot sauce, using Chris Schlesinger’s own recipe. It’s one of the best food things ever to come out of Boston.
Eat with Dark & Stormys, Red Stripe or whatever else slakes your thirst.
Heirloom tomato salad and pasta with lemon sauce. These are all about getting the best ingredients.
Tomatoes: get tasty, juicy and ripe ones. They’re only available at this time of year and you should be able to smell the tomato scent wafting off the fruit. Slice, arrange and sprinkle with coarse sea salt at least 30 minutes before serving. When ready to eat, grind fresh pepper over them, garnish with torn basil leaves and a drizzle of olive oil.
Pasta: finely grate 7 ounces of pecorino romano. Zest and juice 2 lemons. Gradually stir the zest-juice combination into the cheese until consistency is thick. Add olive oil and mix to create a creamy sauce. Meanwhile, you have brought a large pot of well-salted water to the boil. Cook pasta until al dente – vermicelli is shown – and reserve 2 tbs of the cooking liquid. Drain pasta, return to pot, and stir in the sauce, making sure that every strand of pasta is fully coated. Add cooking liquid to loosen, toss again, add roughly torn basil and serve with extra Romano. (Adapted from Ruth Rogers, the River Cafe Cookbook.)
This is really a winter dish from Ruth Rogers but I adapted it a bit for the summer.
Very straightforward, but do leave a lot of time – this is really a 2-hour preparation.
3 Italian sweet sausage (get good ones), skins removed, sausage meat crumbled
1 large yellow onion, peeled and chopped
2 cloves purple garlic, minced
1 dried red chile, crumbled
3 dried Turkish bay leaves
1/3 cup red wine
14-15 oz can good Italian tomatoes, fully drained, tomatoes crushed in your hands
1/4 nutmeg, grated
1/3 cup whole milk
1/4 cup romano pecorino, freshly grated
freshly ground black pepper
fresh sage leaves
1/2 lb dry spaghetti
Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a heavy bottomed pan over medium heat. Add the crumbled sausage meat and stir and fry until lightly browned. If it sticks, great. Now add the onion, garlic, chiles and bay leaves and cook over medium heat for 30 minutes until onions are lightly browned, stirring frequently. You will be developing a fond and there will be stickiness – it’s all good.
Pour in the wine and stir, scraping up the bits stuck to the bottom of the pan, until the wine has evaporated – about 2 minutes maximum. Add the drained crushed tomatoes, lower the heat, and cook at a steady but low simmer for 45-60 minutes until you have an intense dark red mess. Stir in the nutmeg, milk, and Romano pecorino. Season with salt to taste.
Meanwhile, you have brought an extremely large pot of water to the boil. When you anticipate that you are approximately 10 minutes out on the sauce (the sauce can wait, so that part doesn’t matter), add several massive handfuls of kosher salt to the water, cover, and bring to a rolling boil again. Now add the pasta all at once, stir, cover, and set the timer to a minute or so less than the minimum time specified on the pasta box. Once at a rolling boil again, remove cover, stir the pasta, and keep stirring occasionally until timer goes off. About 1 minute before the timer goes off, add a half-ladle of starchy pasta water to the sauce, and stir it in – you want to evaporate it so that the sauce is not watery, but you also want a certain amount of pasta starchiness so that the sauce combines well. You might end up adding a half-ladle full of pasta water a second time, and evaporate that too. Play it by ear.
Taste the pasta – it should be not quite al dente but not quite inedible either. Drain it in a colander and add it to the sauce pan. Toss, drizzling some more olive oil over the mixture, and continue tossing until pasta and sauce are well combined.
Serve into bowls, tear fresh sage leaves over each one. Add a fresh grind of pepper to each bowl and a fresh grating of Romano, and offer your guests the pepper grinder and more cheese to grate at the table.
Two courses – I’m actually going to provide recipes this time. Salad of mixed lettuces, followed by habanero-marinated chicken thighs with parsleyed rice.
Salad of mixed lettuces:
- lettuces of your choice – here are romaine and butter lettuces
- cinnamon basil leaves – torn by hand
- fresh sage leaves
- fresh hyssop leaves
Wash and dry the lettuce and tear into bite-size chunks. Add the fresh herbs. Mix well with your hands. Make a vinaigrette by pounding a medium-sized garlic clove with a pinch of coarse salt and a grinding of fresh pepper until it is mush. Add red wine vinegar (not balsamic) and mix well. Add an equal or lesser amount of olive oil, mix well, pour on salad and toss well, serve.
Chicken thighs marinated with habanero:
- 4 good chicken thighs, bone in and skin on
- 1 1/2 tsp salt
- 1 tsp dried Mexican oregano
- 1/2 Western shallot or 2 Asian shallots
- 1 fresh habanero (Scotch bonnet) chile, or more to taste
- 1 large garlic clove
- 3 tsp ghee
- 1/3 cup vermouth
Crumble the Mexican oregano into the salt in a large bowl and mix well with your hands. Finely chop the shallot, and mince the habanero and the garlic. Add to the dry ingredients and mix well. Add the chicken thighs (do not rinse or dry them), and mix thoroughly with the rest of the ingredients so that the marinade covers every surface of the chicken.
(Wash your hands thoroughly after this.)
Cover bowl and place in fridge for 3 hours, removing and turning the thighs once during that time. Remove from fridge, transfer to a room-temperature bowl, and rest at room temp for about 30 minutes.
Using your hands, remove as much of the marinade as possible from the chicken – as many of the pieces of shallot, garlic and habanero as you can squeeze off – and reserve. Now pat the chicken dry thoroughly on both sides and rest on a plate.
Heat the ghee over medium heat in a heavy pot with a lid such as Le Creuset dutch oven. Add the shallot-garlic-habanero mixture and saute until shallots are soft, about 2-3 minutes. Remove the mixture and reserve, saving the oil (the easiest way to do this may be to pour the hot oil and shallot mixture through a sieve into a bowl). Pour the oil back into the pan.
Turn the heat up to medium-high and add the four chicken thighs. Saute for about 4 minutes on each side or until thoroughly browned. Do not worry is the skin sticks to the bottom of the pan.
Return the shallot mixture to the pan, reduce heat to lowest possible setting, cover and cook for about 30 minutes or until the thighs measure about 160F with a probe thermometer.
(Wash your hands again thoroughly after this – you’ve been handling raw habanero.)
Remove the thighs, pour off the fat, saving as much of the shallots as you can – put those on top of the chicken. Return the pot, which should have ample pieces of caramelized meat and herbs sticking to the bottom of it, to a high flame. When hot, add the vermouth and deglaze, stirring and scraping to dislodge as much of the fond as possible. Just before the vermouth has fully evaporated, pour the contents of the pan over the chicken.
Parsleyed rice (start this about 20 minutes before chicken will be ready):
- 2/3 cup carolina or similar long-grain rice
- 1 1/3 cup water
- generous pinch of salt
- about 3-4 tbs fresh parsley, chopped
Combine rice, water and salt in a pot with a tight-fitting lid. Stir well with wooden spoon or paddle. Bring to a boil, stir again with wooden spoon, and cover with lid (place aluminum foil between pot and lid for extra tight seal if necessary), reduce heat to minimum, and cook for 12 minutes. Turn off heat and allow to sit, covered and undisturbed, for another 2 minutes. Remove lid, add parsley, and fluff well with wooden spoon to aerate rice and mix in the parsley.
Serve rice and chicken on same plate with ample amounts of drippings and shallot mixture, as well as lemon wedges and freshly ground pepper
Sea Island red peas. Soaked overnight and drained. Then simmered an equal mixture of ham stock and chicken stock, added the drained beans along with onion, celery, garlic clove, bay leaf, a pork neck bone and some homemade Jamaican curry powder. Back to a simmer, then into a 250F oven for about 2 hours. Removed, seasoned with salt and about half a finely chopped habanero, returned to oven for 20-30 minutes. Blended a portion of peas and liquid and returned to pot. Removed and discarded vegetables and aromatics. Added sliced serrano ham and freshly minced habanero. Served on buttered carolina rice.
It’s hard to overemphasize the depth and complexity of this dish – earthy but with the subtlety of bitter chocolate and the aroma of juniper. That only scrapes the surface actually. Anson Mills does it again, or maybe I’m still just learning about the intensity & levels of flavor of legumes. Please try it.
Take whole bell peppers, as many different colors as you like, and put them on a grill or under the broiler, turning with tongs until the skin blisters and blackens all over. About 2 minutes per side – some peppers have many sides, some have four.
Seal the blistered peppers in ziplok bags for 10 minutes. Remove and peel with your hands – the skin should come off easily. Do NOT rinse or wash the outside of the peppers as you peel them: they will lose flavor. When you have gotten as much of the skin off as possible – it does not need to be all of it – place a sieve or colander above a bowl and carefully split them open with your hands and seed them, as well as removing any pith. Let the juices collect in the bowl underneath – they are wonderfully delicious and a crucial part of the dish – and reserve.
Slice the peppers into slivers as shown in the photo above, and arrange them on romaine lettuce. Crush a garlic clove in a mortar and pestle with some coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Add the reserved pepper juice and some good wine vinegar and mix. Add olive oil to taste and whisk together.
Arrange good anchovies (recommended: Ortiz a la antigua, shown above) atop the roasted pepper slices. Dress with the dressing. Sprinkle with fresh sage and hyssop.
Adapted from Richard Olney, The French Menu Cookbook.
Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi’s Jerusalem is my kind of cookbook – documenting a food culture centered around a particular region and history, omitting all foams tweezers sous-viding and modernism, and including beautiful photography.
First I made filfel chuma (also known as pilpelshuma), a Libyan Jewish hot sauce. (May I point out that Ottolenghi’s instruction to “soak the ancho chile in boiling water for 30 minutes” is very unclear – it could mean that you should pour boiling water over the chile and let it sit off the heat for 30 mins, or it could mean boil the chile for 30 minutes. It means the former.)
See here for Soba’s step-by-step instructions. Taking a visual cue from him, I cut down the quantities of cayenne and sweet paprika by about half. I also left the caraway seeds whole and halved the quantity of garlic per his recommendation. It’s a crazy-great sweet and bitter relish, somewhat like harissa, but drier:
I then made Palestinian fried tomatoes with garlic, again taking Soba’s lead – cooking the crushed garlic cloves, and subbing filfel chuma for the fresh chile. I had to fry in batches with a fairly large skillet – you really need your largest sauté pan for this. Perfect summer dish, and I was even able to find worthy heirlooms at Eataly (since USGM is closed on Sundays):
Finally, the well-known chicken with caramelized onion and cardamom. This really is a perfect dish. I got it better this time than the first time – maybe better chicken, but also high-quality Ceylonese cinnamon from The Spice House, which I’m now certain is the right kind of cinnamon for this dish:
These meatballs were prepared via a hard-to-find and fairly unusual recipe from Il Casale in Belmont, Massachusetts. I will post the recipe later – suffice it to say that they are the ur-meatballs.
As everyone knows, Hoppin’ John is a Gullah dish that utilizes all sorts of delicious things. Namely salt pork, red peas (or black eyed peas or cow peas), and rice.
I started off by making my own salt pork. Previously I’d used the wet brine method, but I highly recommend using Aliya Leekong‘s dry rub method. Since her site is under renovation, I’ll summarize it here:
2 lbs pork belly, skin removed (you can leave it on if you like)
3 cups coarse sea salt
2/3 cup light brown sugar (I used white sugar since my brown sugar is hard as a rock)
3 tsp black peppercorns, whole
2 tsp whole coriander
2 garlic cloves, smashed slightly
Rinse pork belly and pat dry with paper towels. Place in non-reactive dish. Combine dry ingredients thoroughly, and use some to coat the pork on all sides. (Rub the whole spices in hard. You want them embedded.) Reserve remainder of dry rub. Place plastic wrap on top of pork in dish, and then weights on top of the plastic wrap, pushing down on the pork (cans of beans are good for this, or canned tomatoes, or whatever you have). Refrigerate for 5 days, removing every 24 hours, tossing any liquid thrown off by the pork, and rubbing with a new measure of dry rub. At the end, rinse off dry rub and wrap pork in cheesecloth. It will keep in fridge for “one month” (i.e. forever, why do you think they salted pork in the first place).
The Lithuanians slice salt pork extremely thin and eat it on dark dense sour black bread spread with butter. The Ukrainians and Belorussians are said to drive for 6 hours or more to taste this delicacy.
On to the Hoppin’ John. I used Anson Mills red peas that had been languishing in my freezer. Soaked overnight, then cooked in their cooking liquid. The Anson Mills recipes are way too fussy for my taste and use far too many ingredients, so I turned to the always trusty John Thorne for a recipe.
1 cup red peas, black-eyed peas or cowpeas, soaked overnight in plenty of water and some salt
1 small chunk salt pork, sliced thin and blanched in boiling water for 10 secs (or skip that if you like salt like I do)
1 onion chopped
1 cup raw rice (Carolina please)
1+ hot chile, diced
1 clove garlic, minced
1+ bay leaf
minced fresh parsley
a little thyme
salt & pepper
Boil 5 cups water (ideally the soaking water from the beans, with more added if necessary), add beans (“peas”) with bay leaf and simmer for 45 minutes until the beans are soft enough to crush against the roof of your mouth, but not mushy.
Meanwhile, render salt pork in frying pan until crispy. Remove the crispy pork and reserve. Fry onion in the rendered fat (add 1-2 tbs butter if pork hasn’t thrown off enough fat) until translucent.
When beans are ready, eyeball the remaining liquid. There should be about 2 1/2 cups in there. If not, add water till you think it’s at the right level. Then add salt pork, onions, uncooked rice and all the other seasonings. Bring to a very brief boil then simmer for 20 minutes uncovered. At the end, the liquid should be just about gone and the beans and rice almost or pretty much cooked/perfect. Turn off the heat and let sit for 10 minutes. Serve, with a little extra fresh parsley on top, hot sauce or freshly chopped chiles at the table, cornbread, bitter greens, salad.
Adapted from John Thorne, Serious Pig.
Recipe was adapted from John Thorne’s Serious Pig, a must-buy for anyone interested in American regional cuisine, or just great food prose in general:
The classic recipe calls for a cracked ham bone with generous pieces of meat left on it, or alternatively New Orleans pickled pork, neither of which I had to hand. What I did have was copious quantities of ham stock in the freezer from my Christmas ham, as well as $2 worth of pork neck bones from Flushing’s Chinatown (and two bucks buys you a lot of those there). Some chorizo or kielbasa was also recommended – all I could easily source was Goya chorizo. I stand by this shit. Cheap and good.
The beans were Rancho Gordo sangre de toro, part of their Xoxoc Project for working with indigenous farmers to preserve Mesoamerican bean varieties that are in danger of going extinct. These small, sumptuous red beans are far tastier than regular kidney beans, and closer to the small kidneys used in Louisiana. Also, most importantly, I had a bag of them.
So here’s the recipe – pretty simple, just allow yourself a lot of time.
- 1 cup small dried red beans, soaked overnight, reserving the soaking water
- up to 1 quart ham stock
- 2 lbs pork neck bones
- 2 Goya chorizo sausages, cut into 1/8-1/4″ discs
- 1/2 green bell pepper, diced
- 1/2 red bell pepper, diced
- 1 medium onion, diced
- 1 celery stalk, finely diced
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 sprig fresh thyme
- 1 small, hot red chile seeded and minced
- 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, minced
- 3-4 scallions, finely minced, green and white parts, half of which reserve uncooked
Blanch the pork neck bones from a cold start, boiling 1-2 minutes, drain and set aside.
Put beans in a heavy pot, cover with 1 quart ham stock, filling out with reserved soaking liquid as need be, add some salt, bring to a hard boil for 10 minutes, reduce flame and simmer for at least 1 hour, adding more soaking liquid as necessary, until beans are tender.
Meanwhile, melt 2 tbs butter in a skillet or large pot over medium heat and cook onions, both bell peppers and celery until soft (6-8 minutes). Add garlic, scallions and parsley and saute for another 2 minutes. Add bay leaves and sausage and saute for another 2 minutes.
Add saute contents to bean pot with all other ingredients, salt and pepper to taste (keeping in mind that the ham stock and chorizo will have some salt already), bring to a boil, and and cook from 1 1/2 to 4 hours at a bare simmer, adding more reserved bean liquid (or hot water if you run out) as necessary. As the beans and other ingredients really begin to soften, mash them up against the side of the pot and stir the pulp back into the main liquid to thicken it.
Make rice to taste towards the end of the cooking period and serve beans and its gravy on top of it. Scatter reserved uncooked minced scallions on top. Place on table with condiments to taste (suggested: hot sauce, chopped raw onions, chopped raw scallion, chiles in vinegar, or really whatever you like).
It’s getting cooler and darker here so I pulled out the unglazed tagine and improvised a highly unauthentic (i.e., non-Mediterranean) tagine of chicken with habaneros, cayenne peppers and olives.
I gently warmed a quarter-cup of olive oil in the tagine over a flame tamer on medium heat. Sauteed two cloves of minced garlic, one minced orange habanero and one minced medium-hot long Indian green chile until garlic changed color.
Added a mixture of 1 tsp each ground cumin, black pepper, sweet paprika, and 1/2 tsp each ground Ceylonese cinnamon and Indian medium-hot dried red chiles, and sauteed briefly.
Then added a couple tablespoons tomato paste and sauteed for a bit.
Added 3/4 cup hot water and 1/2 tsp salt, brought to a boil, added 3 chicken thighs and a big long green cayenne pepper, quartered the long way. Brought to a boil again, then covered simmered for one hour, turning chicken halfway, adding olives about 10 minutes before the end.
Removed thighs and crisped them in 450-degree oven. Meanwhile removed olives and peppers from sauce, boiled it down in a saucepan, degreased. Returned everything to tagine for another 10-minute simmer, followed by 5 minutes sitting off heat, covered.
Garnished with fresh flat parsley (more of a critical ingredient to this preparation than you might think).
I’d say it was a pretty unqualified success – I wish I’d had better olives and only added them at the end. And I think pimentón de la vera would have added a nice smokiness in place of, or in addition to, the sweet paprika. The interesting part is that the final result was not that spicy, even though that habanero packs a punch (and was supplemented by the other chiles) – the essential sour fruitiness of the habanero was there, but much of the sharp capsicum impact had dissipated somehow. Next time I’ll use more.
Final point – it is remarkable how the unglazed tagine adds a flavor of its own. Of course this is the whole point of unglazed tagines – the seasoning – but I wonder whether sometimes I want the slow-cooking properties of earthenware without that particular flavor (which I can’t quite pinpoint – some combination of the clay and all the dishes that have cooked in it previously). An excuse to buy a glazed tagine.
I’d always thought that authentic gazpacho required blending that Mediterranean staple, stale bread, but not according to José Andrés. His incredibly simple, purist gazpacho calls for just tomatoes, cucumber, green pepper, a garlic clove, sherry vinegar, olive oil and salt.
I added half a fresh jalapeno, helped out our still somewhat pallid NYC tomatoes with some San Marzano juice, and omitted his elaborate garnish, substituting a slice of avocado. I like some chunkiness & pulp, so didn’t bother to strain. His tips for tasting at key steps are essential.
A traditional Fourth of July dish, file this one under U.V. (unintentionally vegan). The recipe combines brown (whole) and orange (split polished) lentils and is pressure-cooked with curry leaves, cumin, coriander seed, black mustard seed, fenugreek seed, garlic, turmeric, tomatoes, chili powder, fresh cilantro and lemon juice. I used fresh grated turmeric instead of the powder.
It’s easy to make without a pressure cooker too. (If you can’t find curry leaves, substitute leaves from celery stalks.) The recipe comes from onelifetoeat.
I mixed a bunch of recipes for this. Clams were Manila, which approximate most closely to Adriatic ones. I used a pound of clams in their shells for two people. Tap clams against side of the sink and discard any open ones that don’t close.
Put water on to boil and cook pasta until just al dente or a bit short of that. Meanwhile, time the following so that the clams will be open when you are draining the pasta.
Slice some garlic paper thin and heat in olive oil until light brown. Add crumbled dried red chile flakes and stir to combine. Turn heat to high, add clams, and stir for 30 seconds. Splash in half a cup or more of dry white wine, along with a generous slug of good quality clam juice or canned clams in their juice, season (keeping in mind that juice or canned clams may be well salted), lower heat, cover, and cook until clams open fully, 3-6 minutes.
Drain pasta and add to clams, stir well, add chopped parsley, cover for 30 seconds, toss again with a tablespoon of olive oil, and serve.
(photo: Village Voice)
There used to be an incredible Dominican restaurant in New York on 14th Street just west of Seventh Ave, called Sucelt Coffee Shop. It was a family-run hole in the wall serving up some of the most delicious food in the city. It closed about five years ago.
Sucelt had an incredible cubano sandwich, great beef empanadas, orange juice freshly squeezed to order in a squeezing machine in front of you and insanely cheap, all kinds of stews and beans, luscious sweet fried maduros (plantains), and a deeply complex and spicy homemade agrio de naranja (bitter orange salsa) sitting in plastic dispensers on the counter.
But my favorite was the chicken stew with rice and black beans, pictured above. I’ve been trying to reverse-engineer it at home. The new and much lauded Latin, Caribbean and Central American cookbook, Gran Cocina Latina, unfortunately does not contain a recipe. Instead I’ve had to troll blogs and online recipes for pollo guisado, with mixed results.
This chicken stew recipe, from Dominican Flavor, contains some of the odd instructions you get from non-professional recipe writers, such as “bring the oil to a boil.” What I got from following the instructions more or less to a T was the following:
It looked good and tasted good, but the meat was too dry, and it certainly wasn’t the same as the Sucelt recipe. Not enough tomato, no potato. The beans here were Rancho Gordo’s new negro de arbol variety, prepared the simple RG way, and certainly had the right blackness and depth of flavor.
Next up was another non-professional recipe, this time from the Burden Clothing website. The photo certainly looked right, but once again, the recipe suffered from various confusing inconsistencies: potatoes are pictured but not listed in the ingredients; the ingredient list is not in the order called for in the instructions; and there is much vagueness on levels of heat, cooking times, etc. Sometimes vagueness can be a virtue, because it encourages you to experiment more, and in fact this version of the dish came much closer to the ideal.
There were also distinct similarities to the first recipe, such as caramelizing white sugar in the oil before you brown the chicken, which made me think I was getting closer to the real thing. At the same time, it called for adding water to the oil, which maybe is what the first recipe assumed you were doing when it told you to “boil the oil.” Adding water and cooking with the lid closed of course results in steaming the meat, and the result was – no surprise – less dry.
The chicken was moist and falling off the bone, there was the distinct green bell pepper aroma in the stew, and the potatoes were perfect. The only problem was that it could have braised/steamed a bit longer, needed a bit more salt, and perhaps a bit more depth of flavor. It could possibly use chicken stock instead of water, or even a dash of Worcestershire sauce (which is apparently genuinely used in Dominican cuisine). I’ll be trying that next time.
The beans this time were Rancho Gordo’s midnight black beans. The bean recipe this time was Cuban, from Three Guys In Miami. (Black beans are more Cuban; Dominicans normally use red beans, but Sucelt gave you a choice of either one.) I can recommend this recipe unreservedly, though I think I want to use a blacker, denser bean than RG’s midnights next time. I subbed red pepper for green pepper.
Here are two vegetable dishes from Fuchsia Dunlop’s new book, Every Grain Of Rice. I’m linking to the British edition because that’s the one I own.
These are both fairly simple and don’t call for too many outlandish ingredients, but there’s one that is an absolute necessity: chilli bean paste from Pixian. Do not buy the standard brands like Lee Kum Kee, which are Cantonese and have a completely different flavor. Look for the word “Pixian” on the label, or the characters 郫县. Dunlop has written a mini-essay on this subject HERE.
The first is twice-cooked Swiss chard. The chard is blanched, stalks and leaves separately, and later stir-fried in the wok, hence twice-cooked. The seasonings include Pixian bean paste, garlic, ginger, fermented black beans, chopped celery, scallion and cilantro. This is a true vegetarian dish – vegan in fact.
The second dish includes a small amount of meat (1/5 lb ground beef), like many Chinese vegetable recipes. It’s simpler to make and focuses more on getting the right degree of wok-sear on the beef and the vegetable. It is “Send the rice down” chopped celery and minced beef, so called because you use it to send the rice down… the ingredients in this one also include Pixian bean paste, of course, plus ginger and Chinkiang (black) vinegar.
This Levantine chopped salad looks forward to summer. It’s essential to get the best ingredients – tomatoes at this time of year are particularly problematic, so I recommend getting the smallest, ripest ones you can find on the vine. If even those are mealy or tasteless, try getting a lot of grape tomatoes – they tend to have a fair amount of concentrated sour-sweetness at any time of year. It’s also important to try to get Lebanese-style mini-cucumbers. Full-size supermarket cucumbers are watery and tasteless.
Adapted from Ottolenghi and Tamimi’s Jerusalem.
1 cup plain full-fat Greek yogurt and 3/4 cup plus 2 tbs whole milk
3 stale pitas, torn into bite-size chunks
Plum, cherry or grape tomatoes to equal 3 large tomatoes in season, cut into 2/3-inch dice
3 large radishes, thinly sliced
3 Lebanese or mini-cucumbers, peeled and cut into 2/3-inch dice
2 scallions, thinly sliced (green and white parts)
2 tbs flat-leaf parsley, coarsely chopped
2 tbs fresh mint leaves
1 tbs dried mint
2 cloves of garlic, crushed in a mortar and pestle or on the chopping board
3 tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 cup olive oil, plus extra to drizzle
2 tbs white wine vinegar
3/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 tsp salt
1 tbs ground sumac, or more, to garnish
Whisk the yogurt and whole milk together in a bowl and leave in a cool place or in the fridge for a minimum of 3 hours, or better yet, overnight, so that bubbles form on the surface. It’s a less sour version of a sort of homemade buttermilk.
Prepare all the ingredients about half an hour prior to serving.
Place the pita bread chunks in a bowl and cover with the buttermilk. Pile all the other ingredients on top except the sumac and mix well. Allow to sit for 10 minutes so that all the flavors combine.
Serve into bowls, drizzle extra olive oil on top, and sprinkle generously with ground sumac.
Another recipe from Naomi Duguid’s new Burma: Rivers of Flavor.
Tart garlic chicken, from the Shan region of Burma, may not look like much, but boy it packs a chickeny-lime wallop. It’s a simple hearty dish that is perfect for the winter cold season. The ingredient list is incredibly simple: chicken, garlic, ginger, long green chiles, cilantro and lime juice.
The broth picks up added richness from the hacked bones, but there’s not much else to it.
Served with kachin pounded beef with herbs again, a sort of salad made in a mortar & pestle and infused with Sichuan peppercorns from neighboring China. Plus Burmese tart-sweet chili garlic sauce on the side.
Key limes are in season right now and cheap. They are closer in size and rind thickness to Indian limes (confusingly often called lemons there) than our limes, which makes them perfect for pickling.
This recipe from Mahanandi takes only 2 weeks and is extremely easy. Don’t omit the fenugreek seeds (methi). I had some of the finished pickle last night and I’m not dead yet.